Electric Shower Head Tankless Hot Water Heater 110 V Includes 14″ Installation Nipple



Electric Shower Head Tankless Hot Water Heater 110 V Includes 14″ Installation Nipple “Sale”

  • YOU WILL NEVER RUN OUT OF HOT WATER. EVERYONE GETS A HOT SHOWER
  • WORKS GREAT EVEN WITH 2PSI WATER PRESSURE UP TO 150 PSI.
  • PERFECT FOR POOL SIDE HOT SHOWER RINSE OFFS, ALSO GREAT FOR CABINS WHERE YOU DON’T REALLY NEED A HOT WATER HEATER PLUS ALL THE EXTRA PIPING.
  • This amazing instant water heater is designed for one point of use at a time and it can be connected to the existing hot water piping
  • delivers over 40 gallons of hot water an hour with a 45 degree rise in temperature. This means that if your tap water is at 65 °F, it will instantly deliver 40 gallons of hot water an hour of water at 110 °F.


Price is accurate as of the date/time indicated. Prices and product availability are subject to change. Any price displayed on the Amazon website at the time of purchase will govern the sale of this product.
Available from 0 Store
Product Information and Prices stored: May 17, 2012, 16:51




Related posts

coded by nessus

5 Comments to Electric Shower Head Tankless Hot Water Heater 110 V Includes 14″ Installation Nipple

  1. October 14, 2010 at 10:59 pm | Permalink

    This device should be installed with GFCI protection. Interrupters ground fault goes off in the event of a short that could save someone’s life. electrical codes already? require life-saving protection for all circuits in bathrooms, kitchens and garages.

    Even before installing it make sure that it be certified by a Nationally Recognized Testing Lab (NRTL) such as UL or CSAus. testing labs to certify that products are safe to use and the fact that this product uses and mixes the water and electricity? I would not use it without independent approval.

    In addition, the United States, the National Electric Code (NEC) requires each switch can? only be loaded to 80% of its capacity? rated. There? means that a 30 amp circuit breaker can? only be charged at 24A. This unit? 25A pulls that if installed on a 30A circuit breaker? in violation of the requirements of NEC. As crazy it may sound, this unit? should actually be installed on a 40A circuit breaker and have the appropriate size wire running to it.
    Rating: 3 / 5

  2. October 15, 2010 at 1:42 am | Permalink

    Received this article, when I installed according to the instructions did not work! He also had a family member who has led one and also did not work.
    Rating: 1 / 5

  3. October 15, 2010 at 1:47 am | Permalink

    This thing has a restricion in the flow of water about 1 / 8 “in diameter and that slows the flow of hot water too.
    Rating: 2 / 5

  4. October 15, 2010 at 2:05 am | Permalink

    I traveled a lot in 3? world and have stayed in homes that do not have hot water heater – with the exception of a small electric showhead that takes the chill off the pipe-in water and you d? -a hot shower or warm as you prefer.

    When I decided to install an out recently, I had to go online to look for: any of this? at my local Home Depot or hardware store!

    In Coral head, I found exactly what I wanted: it is in 110 and 220. Pi? easy for me? was the 110 version – until I had a heavy enough to tie in circuit

    Some have said this product does not work: they are betting they tried to wire in a circuit of 15 amp every time and travel only.

    Look – this? a bit ’stove in about 3 or 4 inches of space! There? means that when it comes into play, just like your microwave oven or an air conditioner, which sucks some current

    I have a heavy track for my master jacuzzi (nearby) I could tie in bathroom – 30 amps – and that was right. I had to buy about 30 meters of wire # 10 (3-strand – YOU MUST properly grounded UNITA ‘water and electricity? Are dangerous bedfellows). SO – I spent about $ 45 on the wire ($ 1 49/ft to Home Depot.) – Pi? than you paid for the shower head itself

    I used some half-inch PVC pipe to the outside wall, which is held out horizontally on a triangular mount bracket cheap, he added a step-up (plastic) screw to a standard garden hose, neatly mounted on the wall, screwed on the outside you touch – and the game? done.

    control how the hot water comes from the flow of water from the tap: a wire, and the water squirts out hot. Increases a little, ‘and the temperature drops.

    What? exactly how it should work!

    Some people have complained about the volume of water is obtained through the unit?: again,? a small stove! This? a low volume shower head. However, this saves water and electricity.

    I would have given the product 5 stars but for two things. I would have liked the manufacturer to give me about 3 meters of cable that comes out of the head that I’d be off the wall and do a neat job of connecting. Instead, there are only 4 or 5-inch heads, which means I had to connect the wires to my right heavy shower head, and that does not look great. Furthermore, the product come with a plastic nozzle (spray water), but on mine, more? than half? holes were unfinished – still connected with the plastic, and I had to put a little ‘fine on my drill and out myself. This? a bit ’simple finish the producer should be checked and done.

    Overall – good product, just what I was looking for. But do not look for shortcuts dangerous hooking it up! Heavy cables, grounding, and a decent track.
    Rating: 4 / 5

  5. October 15, 2010 at 3:25 am | Permalink

    This unit? must have a low flow so that the capacity? Heating should not be exceeded by the demands of the water flow. The water takes a lot of energy input for a change? temp, and cold coming out of the ground, the less? the maximum temperature will be out? in a given flow rate. . . thus limit the maximum capacity so that it can work in places where the water exits the ground at 60 + degrees as is likely in most parts of Brazil.
    Brazilian />

    It should be mentioned in a pi? evident in the product description, what? altogether difficult to decipher because of all the plugs in the sections, and a total lack of paragraph separation. . .

    The other thing that should be visible and properly identified? this device, though? 110 volts, would not be safe to plug into a common family or 110/120 volt commercial grade container. For safe installation, Section 10 requires a minimum of cables, and a switch 30 amp, 25 amp does not like? switch to a common size here.

    In addition, the wire? commonly sold with a rating. . . The section of the cables? dictated by the code according to the amperage switch, which must match or exceed the amperage requirement of the device. . . that in this case? of 25 amps, then 30? the next step in the common format switch.

    Rating: 5 / 5

Leave a Reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.